How To Be Your Service Dog’s Best Friend

Introduction

This is designed to give you:

The foundational information you need in order to make sense of our methodology. We ask that you follow this format when learning this vital material:

The actions to take in order to work well with a CA dog-or any dog! We ask that you follow this format when learning these actions:

Read about the actions to take.
Review the material again.
Rehearse those actions carefully in your mind.
Recall them when working with your dog.

Part One-Foundational Information

Your Goal When Working with a Service Dog:

When working with a service dog, remember the 3Cs. Your goal is to help the dog become and remain:

Confident enough to pose no threat to public safety
Capable enough to provide needed help
Content enough to be happy and healthy

Our Bond-Based Approach to educating and interacting with dogs is the key to your success.

What is the Bond-Based Approach®?

The Bond-Based Approach focuses on our ability to influence dogs’ minds (thoughts and feelings) rather than seeking to control their bodies.

Bond-Based is a socio-cognitive educational methodology. Social connection is the basis for cognitive learning. The word cognition comes from the Latin word meaning to know and is similar to the word cognizant which means to be aware.

Our Bond-Based Motto: Influencing the mind rather than controlling the body.

How is Bond-Based different from dog training?

Dog training seeks to control a dog’s actions making it a you vs. your dog proposition.

Bond-Based allows you to give your dog the security and confidence needed to control his own actions making it a you + your dog proposition.

Dogs who feel secure and confident are ‘good’ dogs.

Why the Bond-Based Approach Was Developed

Animal training methods are based largely on the principles of behaviorism and use reward and punishment. When we first began, our training and handling methodology was primarily punishment-based obedience as was the training preference of the day. This left us with dogs who were compliant, provided handlers had the means and willingness to insistence on compliance. But neither dogs nor people thrived under such largely unpleasant conditions. Over the course of time, we shifted to a positive reinforcement-based methodology. While the people felt much happier with the positive reinforcement approach, the dogs actually showed signs of increased anxiety. This led us to review what exactly we needed from and wanted for our dogs. We then conducted a thorough analysis of the available information regarding canine cognition and behavior published in peer-reviewed journals since 1997 in order to determine how best to reach these goals.

What Our Studies Lead Us to Realize

Dogs, like people, are highly social animals.

Social animals want to fit in with and be liked by those in their social group.

Dogs need people be part of their social group. They depend on us for food, water, shelter, friendship, and more. They are largely helpless without us.

This level of dependency means dogs must worry about making us happy enough to keep taking care of them. This worry is exploited by dog training.

There are two ways dog training works. The first uses punishment and the second uses reward. What they both use is FEAR. Training either makes dogs afraid they will be punished or afraid they won’t be rewarded.

Making social animals who need us to stay alive do as we say through fear is a form of BULLYING. It isn’t fair and it should not be done.

Scared dogs can be trained to robotically respond to cues but they cannot truly learn.

Scared dogs do not have the confidence necessary to handle the situations in which service dogs can find themselves. Dogs who are afraid are more likely to bite people.

Cues or commands can obscure feelings. If you cue your dog to assume a particular position you have no way of knowing if your dog is actually comfortable in that position. Dogs who are fearful are far more likely to behave inappropriately than are dogs who are comfortable and confident.

Obedience can lead to the inhibition of potentially beneficial behavior. If your dog has to wait for your cue or worry about what might happen if he is “wrong”, he may well be unwilling to do anything other than follow your directives. This means that he may not do something he instinctively wants to do, such as alert to a fire or an oncoming seizure.

In working with dogs, our job is to help them acclimate to a living environment, a culture, that – while their nature may have predisposed them to relatively easily adaption – is foreign to them.

While cultural acclimation can occur within dictatorial (I say – you do) relationships, it requires a loss of control on the part of the dogs that, based on all we know about dogs as sentient, social beings, is incompatible with good emotional and mental, and therefore physical health.

Going Inside Out

When you make dogs DO something, you take away their ability to choose causing them to FEEL powerless and helpless. This is an Outside – In (Body to Mind) approach. This is dog training.

When you influence how a dog FEELS, they have the power to DO what they choose. This is an Inside – Out (Mind to Body) approach. This is Bond-Based.

Dogs who have trust in you FEEL secure in their relationship with you.

Dogs who have trust in themselves FEEL confident.

Dogs who FEEL secure and confident CHOOSE to do the ‘right’ thing for their team and teammates.

Our focus needs to be on our dogs’ internal state...their trust in us and trust in themselves.

When working with our dogs we must ask, “Am I doing this to change my dog’s actions or his mind?”

IT IS COOPERATION RATHER THAN COERCION THAT LEADS TO A HAPPY, HEALTHY, WELL-BEHAVED DOG!

Their Minds but Our Responsibility

Dogs, and their actions, are our responsibility. We have bred dogs to remain somewhat childlike their whole lives. Add that to the fact that we ask dogs to become members of our families and society rather than seeking to become members of theirs, and it is clear that their actions are our responsibility for all of their lives. In order to help our dogs ‘act appropriately’ it is their thoughts and feelings, their minds, on which we must focus rather than mandating their behavior.

Please understand that allowing the dogs to control their own actions does NOT mean that they get to do whatever they want to do. It means we give the dogs what they need to behave appropriately without mandating their actions. Remember, truly loving someone means we tell them when they are violating societal expectations, something that is unlikely to be in their best interest. You don’t let your child go to school naked because that wouldn’t be good for him. Likewise, there are things our dogs must learn are not appropriate. We teach them by influencing their minds, their thoughts and feelings, rather than directing their actions.

Volunteers at Canine Assistants hear time and again that they must set the dogs up for success. When they take a CA dog out of the kennels, they know the dog will be excited so they must be prepared with two hands for petting, food for sharing, a toy with which to play tug, or anything else that will help the dog relax enough not to jump and mouth and generally behave like a rabid squirrel. We no longer use our leashes or even our voices to control their actions. Our job is to influence their thoughts and feelings so that the dogs themselves can appropriately control their actions. We set them up for success and then we let them succeed. Failure is not an option! We see to it.

Dogs are, in so many ways, our children who never grow up. Their actions are their choice, as it should be, but the set up is always our responsibility.

Your Job

To help your dog develop trust in you and trust in himself so that he can and will voluntarily cooperate with you.

Your Roles

Nurture – Begin your relationship with any dog by nurturing, assuming the role of supportive grandparent thus helping the dog develop trust in you. Show the dog that you will meet all needs: food (by feeding and food-sharing), water (with water bowls and water sharing), shelter (by sharing space), safety (by using the We Leash and other means of protection), and connectedness (by showing him unconditional affection).

Nudge – As your dog and your relationship matures, your nurturing responsibilities remain but you add the additional function of becoming a mentoring friend. In this role, you nudge your dog toward taking responsibility for his own actions as he develops the knowledge (an understanding of the rules of human society gained by using such developmental exercises as Gentle and Ick) and skills (gained by using such cognitive exercises as yes/no, labeling, and Like Me) that he needs to do so. As your dog gains knowledge and skills he begins to develop trust in himself.

Know – When your dog and your connection is fully mature and functional, you add a final role to your nurturing and nudging – that of PARTNER. You now know you can function as a team with each member voluntarily cooperating with and listening to one another.

*You will be given detailed explanations of the interactions and exercises mentioned above in later sections.

First you nurture, then you nudge, and finally you know.

Nurturing and Nudging

Nurturing – Trust in You

Before anything else can happen, you must nurture your dog enough for them to develop a secure attachment to you.

In order to do that, you must BE THERE and BE FAIR.

How to BE THERE:

Respond quickly and consistently to dog’s needs. It doesn’t mean you have to say yes…you just have to say something!

Be fully engaged when working with your dog or when your dog requests your attention. Stay ON THE PHONE!

Never make your dog earn your affection or caregiving. Freely share food, water, and sleeping space.

How to BE FAIR

Being fair to your dog is a little more complicated. It requires you understand his perspective on things which will allow you to better understand the Canine Culture. You will find detailed information in the Canine Culture section.

Nudging – Trust in Himself

In order to be a fully functional partner, your dog must learn to have as much trust in himself as he has in you.

In order to help your dog develop trust in himself, you must SET HIM UP TO SUCCEED and then LET HIM SUCCEED.

Setting Him Up to Succeed

Give your dog the knowledge and skills needed to make good decisions by helping him do the following: (Practice Exercises are explained in detail beginning on page )

1. Synchronize with your demeanor

Practice Exercises: Patience, Ick, Gentle, Crazy/Calm, Freeze

2. Demonstrate an action and have him copy you using Like Me.

Practice Exercise: Like Me

3. Teach him nouns and verbs by explaining what you call actions and objects and individuals as you go through your day.

Practice Exercises: Labeling, Better Hurry

Letting Him Succeed

Finally, you must encourage your dog to use his VOICE and make his CHOICE.

Giving Your Dog a Voice and a Choice:

We control what and when our dogs eat. What toys they have. Who their friends are. Where and when they sleep. Where and when they can go to bathroom. AND SO MUCH MORE.

We need to give our dogs at least a sense of control. How? Give him a Voice and a Choice!

Use the We Leash so he feels like he can make choices as he walks.

Practice Exercise: We Leash

Ask him questions and let him answer

Practice Exercise: Yes/No

When you need him to do something, ask him rather than telling him.

Watch for his productive language-vocalizations and body language and respond to him.

Give your dog a voice in your head and listen to that voice. People are a verbal species. It makes us more empathetic when we can hear, even in our minds, the thoughts and feelings of another.

The Canine Culture

Partnering with a member of a completely different species presents some unique challenges. Primary among them is that we as people lack an intuitive understanding of what dogs believe and know, what they can learn and how best to teach them. As managing partner, it is our responsibility to learn as much about our dogs as we possibly can and to incorporate this knowledge into our interactions with them.

Your Dog’s Umwelt

Umwelt means how one experiences the world. In order to understand your dog’s umwelt, you need to first understand how he gets and processes sensory information.

The Canine Brain

Scientists now believe that the number of neurons an individual has determines his intellectual capacity.

A Golden retriever is believed to have 627 million neurons in his cerebral cortex. Impressive when compared to a cat’s 250 million cerebral neurons, but maybe less so when compared to a human’s 16 billion cerebral neurons.

In structure, the canine brain looks much like a smaller version of our own.

The Senses

Vision

The retina in the back of the eye contains two types of receptive nerve cells: rods and cones.

Further, there are two different types of cones. One is responsible for the detail and rapidly changing images. The other type is responsible for color vision.

Dogs do not have as many of either type of cone as do human beings.

Looking at it another way, dogs don’t see things nearly as distinctly as do people. An inexpensive app called Dog Vision HD can help you understand just how fuzzy your dog’s vision really is.

We don’t think dogs see as many colors as people do. We know they can see shades of yellow, blues, and grays but likely not reds and greens.

There is also evidence that dogs don’t see any colors as brightly as we do but do see ultraviolet rays we cannot.

Dogs do have more rods than people have.

Some experts believe that dogs can see 5 times better at night than we can.

Dogs can see objects in motion from twice as far as they can see stationary objects.

Many dogs will reflexively chase something they see in their peripheral vision.

Most dogs have a much more peripheral vision, a wider visual field, than people do because their eyes are closer to the side of their faces.

Finally, when viewing the world through a dog’s eyes, remember to take height (or lack thereof) into consideration!

Hearing

Sounds are measured based on pitch or tone and volume.

Dogs have excellent hearing, possessing the capacity to hear a much wider range of pitches.

We would have to add 48 additional keys to the higher end of a piano, the last 20 of which would be inaudible to people, to reach a dog’s limit.

Dogs can even discern minimal changes and differences in pitch.

While studies have shown that dogs do not have the ability to hear lower volume than do humans, they often appear to hear things that we don’t.

Dogs make better use of their actual ears than we do, moving them to create a funnel-like system to help amplify low sounds.

Dogs also pay more attention to sound than people do.

This sensitivity to sound can cause difficulties for dogs in human society since they often hear things we can’t. For example, certain engines like those in vacuums emit a high-pitched sound that dogs can hear.

Please remember to keep the noise level down when your dog is with you as canine ears are damaged by sound noises much like our own.

Startling noises can have a profound impact on dogs causing emotional reactions more intense than those normally experienced by people.

If your dog is startled by a sound, be very matter-of-fact in your response. It’s best to acknowledge the sound and casually explained that it isn’t anything harmful.

NEVER deliberately expose your dog to startling sounds like fireworks.

Dogs can use sounds, and other sensory information, to predict what will happen-much like Pavlov’s dogs with bells.

Some noises, like thunder, can cause dogs to anticipate things that are frightening to them.

Dogs, like people, can be emotionally impacted by sounds.

iCalm uses simple sounds, those that don’t require processing by the brain, to relax dogs.

Smell

As most people know, dogs have an amazing sense of smell.

When considered proportionately, the brain of a dog devotes 40 times the space to smell that the human brain does.

Smells go directly to a special area in the dog’s paleocortex for processing.

Above the roof of a dog’s mouth is a special organ called the vomeronasal organ that helps them collect scent.

Scent receptors in some dogs’ noses would cover the area of a handkerchief, while those in a human nose would cover only a postage stamp.

A dog’s scenting ability is so sensitive that it is difficult for science to even quantify.

Estimates of their scent discrimination abilities range from 1,000 to 100,000 times or more than that of humans.

Dogs can detect a single bad apple in 2,000,000 barrels.

Dogs also can discriminate (separate one from another) odors far better than can humans. For example, where a human might smell beef stew, dogs would smell beef, carrots, potatoes, celery, onions, and spices…each individually.

Taste

The sense of taste is one of the first senses developed by a puppy.

Dogs have approximate 1,700 taste buds to a human’s 9,000, so they clearly don’t have the intensity of taste that humans have.

Of the four taste categories - salty, sweet, sour, and bitter - dogs appear to favor sweet taste.

Dogs are not as attracted by salty tastes as people are.

Dogs, like people, can develop preferences for taste based on emotion.

Touch

Like taste, the ability to discern touch is developed very early in a puppy’s life.

Dogs perceive four forms of touch just like people do: pressure, heat/cold, pain, and proprioception (the ability to tell where one’s limbs are and how fast parts of the body are moving).

The most sensitive areas for touch on a dog are the muzzle, nose, and the paws – particularly in between the toes.

The receptors in the paws are thought to help dogs sense vibration and determine the stability of surfaces on which they’re walking.

The whiskers on a dog are also considered by researchers to be of great importance in helping the dog orient to his environment, functioning much like the cane of a person who is visually impaired.

The Canine Code of Conduct

We must remember that our dogs come into our homes with instincts and moral codes that are different from our own. When our dogs misbehave, it is this difference in code of conduct that is responsible virtually 100% of the time. Knowing their code of conduct allows us to handle misunderstandings in a way that is fair to our dogs.

Possession is 100% of the law

Dogs will rarely take something from another dog, even a puppy, unless the other dog gives the item by walking away from it.

Once an item has been left, it belongs to whomever picks it up first.

Try to trade your dog when you need to take something from him (except in emergencies and then at least apologize) in order to avoid being rude.

Polite dogs approach from the side

Approaching someone head-on can be considered quite rude. Polite dogs prefer to approach at an angle.

When walking a dog on leash, be certain you approach other dogs from an angle rather than head-on.

When dogs are feeling a little anxious, dogs often make a wide, meandering arc around the individual they are approaching. Remember this when calling your dog!

If it’s edible, eat it. If it’s chewable, chew it.

Dogs are hunter/scavengers. Leaving available food alone is against every instinct they have. After all, who knows when food might be available again? It’s not like our dogs understand the concept of grocery stores.

If you don’t want your dog to eat something, don’t leave it where your dog cannot get it. This includes trash cans too.

Dogs have a physical and instinctual need to chew. Meet that need with chew toys and bones that are safe and appropriate (see section on safe toys for a list). We find that just chewing isn’t always enough. Sometimes dogs need something, like a retriever roll or non-rawhide, they can tear into and then chew. You can even put a little kibble in paper towel or toilet tissue roll and let them shred it! It’s easier to clean up on a hard floor-FYI!

Anything that smells like you is likely to become a chew toy in your dog’s mind. Put up ANYTHING you don’t want your dog to chew!

Try not to soil your living space.

Dogs consider where they spend time to be their living space. Block off unused rooms to keep dogs from seeing them as appropriate bathroom areas.

Dogs are most likely to have accidents in public when they are in large, open areas, such as malls and airports. Be sure to potty your dog before going inside a public place and distract him well when headed outside after being indoors for a long time.

Housebreaking is more YOUR responsibility than your dog’s (see Attachment E Troubleshooting for more information).

Most accidents happen when dogs are not given the chance to go out enough.

Illnesses and stomachaches can also result in accidents.

Young dogs often pee when nervous or excited. They will grow out of this!

Very rarely extremely insecure dogs will use urine or stool as a scent marker to guide home someone they fear is lost. This issue resolves quickly as a dog’s confidence increases.

Never sleep alone.

Sleep makes one incredibly vulnerable. For that reason, communal sleeping is the norm for most families and other social groups. Not only are parents in the US among the few who commonly force our children to sleep alone, we are the only species that does so.

It might seem like forcing someone to sleep alone would increase independence but studies indicate the reverse is actually true. The feeling of safety gained when sleeping close to family ultimately leads to greater security, confidence, and independence.

If it runs, chase it. If it chases you, run from it.

Most dogs reflexively chase small creatures who run. Be prepared to distract your dog when small and furry critters, including cats, puppies, and other small dogs, dash past as he may grab it which could result in accidental injury.

As your dog comes to know other members of your household, the instinct to chase them fades. Just be cautious, initially, as your dog acclimates to his new siblings.

In public, using the We Leash (see Attachment E Troubleshooting for help with We Leash) will prevent chasing.

If you want your dog to come to you or follow you, remember to face your destination rather than your dog. If you call a dog while moving toward him, the dog assumes he is headed in the right direction and that you will eventually catch up with him!

If you aren’t sure, be still until you are.

When faced with something confusing or alarming, your dog needs time to assess your reaction and the situation at a distance from which he feels safe. Give him this time and distance.

If he still won’t advance after a minute or two, share your bravery saying, “We’ve got this!” in a totally cool, nonchalant tone.

Avoid coaxing or tricking a dog into doing something he doesn’t want to do. It is far better to simply insist than to coax. Coaxing makes things seem like a much bigger deal than are. Coaxing is one of the most problematic behaviors we see in people.

Touch is important and so are human faces.

People who like each other often greet one another by hugging.

Offer your dog alternatives to his standing up to hug you if necessary, like squatting down to his level.

If your dog likes to hug other people, distract him by showing him affection yourself.

Eye contact is an important part of bonding.

Spend as much time at eye level with your dog as you can.

Dogs like to sniff things that smell interesting. Human mouths smell interesting.

Dogs can get a great deal of important information from human breath so let them sniff if you can.

Mouths can work like hands.

Dogs don’t have hands, so they often use their mouths to hold and move things.

It is up to us to help dogs understand what they should and shouldn’t put into their mouths. We use the concept of ‘gentle’ to do that.

Many people don’t understand the difference between mouthing and biting so it is critical we use ‘gentle’ to help our dogs understand that human skin is too fragile to be held in their mouths.

If it’s human, make it happy!

Our dogs do not do things to deliberately frustrate or anger us.

Any failure to make us happy is likely the result of a misunderstanding between two different species.

Try to look at the world through your dog’s eyes as much as you can.

If we made half the effort to understand and please our dogs as they do to understand us, we might one day make them as happy as they make us!

The Emotional Life of Dogs

Recent studies show that emotionally dogs are much like human toddlers. They worry about being loved!

Emotional Needs

Just like people, dogs, especially service dogs, have a hierarchy of needs which must be met before they can learn well and function fully.

Need #1: Food, Water & Shelter

Need #2: Safety

Need #3: Love/Belonging

Need #4: Self-Esteem (Success)

Allows #5: Ability to Help

Obviously, dogs need food, water, and shelter. Providing these things for your dog will allow you show him that you will be a kind caregiver.

Your dog is also dependent on you to keep him safe. He knows nothing about cars or roads or the dangers of antifreeze.

Your love and acceptance give your dog the security of knowing that you will provide for all his needs. It is critical you don’t ever make your dog work for food, affection, or anything else he needs to survive.

Self-esteem for your dog comes from feeling capable and able to please you.

Worry about pleasing you is a major source of anxiety for your dog. Why? Well, you are the parent. As such, you can kick your child out of the family. This, for your dog, would literally be a death sentence, as he cannot care for himself.

It is up to you to show your dog every day of his life that he is safe and makes you happy just by breathing; failure to do so would be a cruelty every bit as bad for your dog as if you did not feed him.

A New Look at Emotions

Affective Neuroscience is the study of what happens in the body to produce feelings, moods, and attitudes.

Dr. Jaak Panskepp is considered the father of Affective Neuroscience.

Dr. Panskepp defines four core emotions (which he always write in capital letters!):

RAGE – The feeling that leads to a burst of energy/power like one would need to escape from a life-threatening situation.

FEAR – The feeling that danger is present.

PANIC – The feeling of being left alone without the ability to care for oneself. This is also called Separation Anxiety.

SEEKING – The feeling of pleasurable anticipation like when you are about to taste something yummy or do something fun.

The neutral pathways for FEAR and SEEKING overlap to such an extent that a dog in SEEKING mode cannot feel fear.

Note: Dogs do not appear to experience certain emotions, such as guilt, that require an understanding of the moral code of human society.

Secure Attachment

The idea of secure attachment comes from psychologist John Bowlby’s Attachment Theory developed in the 1950’s.

Bowlby theorized that an individual’s ability to function lifelong was closely tied to the attachment he experiences with primary caregiver.

Another psychologist, Mary Ainsworth, developed Bowlby’s theory more thoroughly through her Strange Situation Test.

Thanks to her work and that of later researchers, attachment styles can now to classify into 4 distinct categories:

1. Avoidant – Insecure Attachment

This develops when parent figure:

Doesn’t respond to a child’s needs, often claiming he doesn’t want to spoil the child.

Insisting that the child grow up and self-soothe too soon.

Avoidant – Insecure children show:

Avoidance of parent figure.

No preference between parent figure and total strangers.

Might accept attention from parent figure but won’t seek it.

2. Ambivalent – Insecure Attachment

This develops when parent figure:

Ignores needs at times

Tries to compensate for neglect by being overly solicitous

Is largely oblivious to true needs

The Ambivalent-Insecure child shows:

Inconsistent response to parent figure

Hyper-vigilant regarding parent figure

Suspicious and yet overly clingy behavior

3. Disorganized – Insecure Attachment (emerged as category in 1980s)

This develops when parent figure:

Is unpredictable

Is the source of both kindness and abuse

Invokes feelings of comfort and fear

The Disorganized – Insecure Child shows:

Oddly ambivalent response to parent

(i.e. may run up to parent excitedly then hit them.)

Failure to meet gaze

Overly solicitous behavior

Risk of high levels of hostility and aggression

4. Secure Attachment

The four characteristics of secure attachment are:

Proximity Maintenance: Child wants to stay close to caregiver.
Safe Haven: Child runs back to the caregiver when uncertain.
Secure Base: Parent figure provides a stable base from which the child can explore the environment.
Separation Distress: Child is sad when caregiver leaves and happy when reunited with caregiver.

Multiple studies have now shown that dogs develop attachments to their primary person like children do to their primary parent.

Dogs remain childlike enough to easily form multiple secure attachments throughout their lives.

When you see your dog showing all four signs of secure attachment, you can begin really adding Nudging and your Nurturing.

Temperament and Personality

One’s temperament and personality affect one’s umwelt.

A dog’s temperament are those characteristics with which he is born.

A dog’s personality is how those characteristics have been affected by his environment and experiences.

People are believe to work best with a dog that is of a similar personality type.

The Wilson Learning System Personality Assessment can be used to determine both your personality type and your dog’s.

Under this system, individuals are evaluated based on how assertive, social, and flexible (adaptable) they are.

Numerical scores are plotted on a chart that is divided into four main sections:

ANALYTICAL

less socially active, serious - poker faced, slow, methodical, cautious, likes minimal touching, limited risk-taker

DRIVER

not socially comfortable, controlled, formal, fast, intense, driven, limited toucher, risk-taker

AMIABLE

warm, friendly, inviting, patient, doesn’t want anyone upset, easy going, forgiving, likes touching, body contact, limited risk-taker

EXPRESSIVE

socially animated, charismatic, humorous, creative, likes limelight, fast, impatient, informal, likes to touch, risk taker

Tales of the Tails

It is interesting to note that you can tell a great deal about the personality of a dog by evaluating his tail.

Expressive dogs carry their tails high and wag them in a big circle like a helicopter’s rotor.

Amiables tend to carry their tails in a relaxed position with the tip pointed down. They wag their tails in a big, sweeping, side-to-side movement that often wiggles their whole hind end!

Analyticals tend to carry their tails tight against their bodies and wag them in a short, tentative arc.

Drivers usually wag their tails only within their own body frame, though you will see drivers often carry their tails higher than those of amiables or analyticals.

Recent studies have shown that dogs wag their tails more to the left when they are happy and more to the right when feeling unsure.

Stress

Much like humans, dogs can feel enormous amounts of stress. As you would imagine, service dogs are particularly prone to certain types of stress as they have great responsibility.

Types of Stress

There are three types of stress:

Eustress- This is the “positive” stress. Something can also be done to fix eustress. Eustress is actually good for us. If you feel tired and can get rest, this is a form of eustress.
Neutral Stress-This is neither positive nor negative.For example, if your bathroom sink is dripping slightly as you try to sleep, this is a neutral stressor. You are irritated by the dripping, but not irritated enough to get up and fix it.
Distress- This type of stress is bad for us. Distress can’t be eliminated or handled. Distress cause mental and physical harm. For example, if you feel tired, but cannot rest, this is distress.

Possible Dis-Stressors for Your Dog

Lack of Choice/Control

Confinement – crate, laundry room

Separation from you

Boredom – inadequate environmental enrichment

Fear of external stimuli – thunderstorms, fireworks, balloons

To cope with distress, dogs will do something to try to alleviate it. These are known as displacement behaviors.

Canine Displacement Behaviors

Vocalizing – Contact call “Are you there?” “Come here!” “Go Away!” “I am worried.”

Bathroom Accidents – Large amount and/or near exit is not indicative of displacement behavior. Small amount and anywhere or everywhere is indicative of displacement behavior.

Chewing – Doors, frames, windows, carpet (to escape); Furniture, trash, underwear, personal items (for comfort)

Digging – Not a resting shallow or investigation of a smell but making the yard look like “the surface of the moon”

Pacing

Excessive grooming

Licking, scratching, chewing on themselves

To stop these behaviors, you need to try to stop whatever is causing the stress.

Part Two- Action Steps

Exercises

NOTES:

There are two opposite, yet equaling damaging, approaches that we commonly see people take when working with dogs.

The first assumes a dog won’t be willing to do the right thing without your direction.

The second assumes the dog won’t be able to do the right thing without your help.

If you wonder whether or not your dog will do something, he won’t.

When you need your dog to take a certain action, make sure your are clear about your own intent.

Remember, whatever you are saying to yourself, you are saying to your dog.

Your job is to ensure that your dog is both WILLING to make good decisions without your insistence and ABLE to make good decisions without your intervention.

This means that you need to focus, not on specific teaching sessions, but rather on spending time with your dog simply living life.

Narrate everything to your dog as you would to a toddler. “This is stick. This is a leaf.”

It’s not that you want your dog to remember what a stick or leaf looks like necessarily but rather that you want to share as much of your knowledge with him as is possible.

Show your dog how he can tug and retrieve and push things with his paw during the course of your daily life.

Work specific lessons like Ick, Freeze, and Like Me into your daily routine rather than trying to teach them in high pressure sessions.

Pressure leads to fear and fear is the enemy of learning for dogs.

Dogs learn far more easily during the relaxed activities of daily living.

How you make the dog feel is ALL important. What dogs do is determined largely by how they feel.

Dogs must be allowed to manage their own behavior as much as possible rather than our doing it for them.

The ability to affect one’s own circumstance is a critical part of wellness and functionality.

Use treat and kibble to get or keep your dog excited about learning but remember not to use them as a reward or for food-sharing.

How to Empower Your Dog

Extrinsic motivation is when a dog does something in order to earn a reward or avoid punishment. Intrinsic motivation is when dog does something because of how it makes him feel. Extrinsic motivation often decreases intrinsic motivation.

Extrinsic motivation does not allow an individual true choice.

Giving choices whenever possible is CRITICAL for the wellbeing of all creatures.

There is nothing scarier than the belief you have no control whatsoever when faced with unpleasant events or circumstances.

The damaging effects of this feeling produce a pathology called learned helplessness.

Learned helplessness occurs when one or more inescapable negative events are so impactful that one begins to believe all negative events are inescapable.

The negative events don’t always have to be significant for this to happen; they can be something as simple as having to do something you’d prefer not to do.

Obviously learned helplessness is incompatible with a happy, healthy life and can, at times, be incompatible with life itself.

The belief that we can influence our own circumstances, at least to some extent, is a necessary component of the will to live.

Teaching your dog to indicate yes/no (either/or) and asking for his opinion or permission whenever possible will go a long way toward giving your dog the confidence he needs to be happy and well-mannered.

PLEASE READ CAREFULLY:

Use of the We Leash is MANDATORY. ‘Use’ means you are holding one end and your dog is holding the other.

Unless on a sniffing walk or going ‘Better Hurry’, your dog MUST either be holding his end of the We Leash or actively food sharing with you.

Leash reactivity, our #1 aftercare issue, absolutely destroys the very lives we are trying to improve by making our recipients unwilling to leave home.

It doesn’t matter if your dog walks perfectly next to you, what matters is that he is going to feel trapped, and likely become reactive, when tethered to the wheelchair of the child he loves more than his own life—unless he is holding his end of the We Leash.

Helping Your Dog Hold His End of the We Leash

Encourage your dog to sniff the handle or toy by holding toy in your hand and using enticements such as wriggling toy on floor, waggling the toy just above his head, or playing “keep away” by waving the toy briefly then quickly hiding it behind your back.

If your dog isn’t interested in the handle, toy, or binkie alone, wrap a small rawhide in handle or tennis ball in a binkie and secure with rubber bands and repeat the enticement process. Be creative and keep trying different treats/bones/toys. You can try securing a roll hide type treat perpendicular to the handle so they are holding most of the bone/treat in their mouth. There is something every dog won’t want to leave behind – that’s what you need to find. Don’t give up!

Encourage your dog to grab and hold toy. The second he grabs it, walk briskly while praising him. Move your hand close to the toy and play a bit with it if needed, almost like you are playing tug. You may only move a step or two at first but that’s a great start.

BEFORE your dog can drop the toy, ask him to give it to you. Wiggle the toy on ground, wave it over his head, or hide it behind your back for a second, then let him grab it.

If your dog drops the toy before you ask, stop walking for a count of three, take the toy and entice him to grab it, and try the Walk, Ask, Wiggle, Grab sequence again.

Be sure your dog ONLY has access to her handle, toy, binkie while you are walking together so that her end of the leash stays exciting and he can’t chew it up!

It’s fine for you to hold your dog’s end of the leash when he needs to go Better Hurry or to sniff around but when you two are actively walking, he MUST be holding his end of the leash whenever you aren’t food sharing.

Food/Water Sharing

You should always have food for sharing with you-ALWAYS.

Using food palatable to you and safe for your dog, take a small bite and then break off a tiny piece, pretend to put it in your mouth, and then hand it to your dog.

Dog cookies and kibble are fine as treats but food-sharing food should be something you’d actually be willing to eat.

This is the single best bonding exercise you can do.

Sharing your water is also a great way to bond. Pour a bit of your water for your dog when you get yourself a drink.

Two Hands All In

Use both hands to massage the dog while giving him your complete attention.

We call this two hands...all in.

If you cannot use your hands on the dog for some reason, looking at a spot just below his eyes while giving him a loving smile and speaking softly to him can accomplish the same thing.

Point Fiddle Stop

At some point, you must stop going two hands…all in so your dog can function independently.

We call this Point Fiddle Stop.

If your dog seeks contact with you when you stop, you may have stopped too soon.

Time and Distance

When your dog seems fearful of something, you should give him time to realize he doesn’t have to be afraid at a distance from which he feels safe.

Once your dog has had adequate time from an adequate distance, you may explain matter-of-factly to him you have to move forward.

“Put on Your Big Boy/Girl Pants”

All dogs are occasionally confronted by something stressful like automatic doors or elevators or scary aisles.

Provided your dog isn’t truly terrified (shaking, tail tucked under bodies etc.- in which case you should leave) and you have given him adequate time/distance, he needs to grow a pair and just go.

Yes, you may put pressure on his harness for a step or two, but I promise that’s all it will take.

Starting with a dog who is standing still, make eye contact and encourage him to turn around and walk away with you for ten or twenty feet.

Then WITHOUT making eye contact but while food-sharing and talking to your dog IN A MATTER OF FACT TONE (NO COAXING OR BABY-TALK), turn back around and go-through the scary doorway, onto the scary elevator, down the scary hall etc.

Continue talking IN A MATTER OF FACT TONE to your dog WITHOUT making eye contact as you go.

Repeat until your dog is totally at ease with whatever challenge was concerning him. DO NOT stop until your dog has gotten comfortable.

“Quit Actin’ Crazy”

A VITAL part of our job as our dogs’ role model is to help them understand what

simply isn’t done – or shouldn’t be done, without frightening them or undermining their confidence.

This silly phrase is an excellent, stress-free way to provide guidance.

Appropriate behavior is necessary survival skill for dogs...and people for that matter.

You are looking out for the best interests of your dog, yourself, and those around you when you alert them to the fact that what they are doing isn’t okay.

There are those who believe that being kind and being overly permissive are the same thing. They are not.

Staying on the Phone

It is extremely important to stay attentive to your dog EVERY second he is on leash with you.

Your dog should likewise remain attentive to you except for brief breaks lasting only a minute or less.

“Let’s Be Patient”

Encourage your dog to wait at every door and gate threshold, indoors and outdoors, that he crosses for at least a couple of seconds.

Begin by saying something such as “let’s be patient” and blocking the opening with your body if necessary, but little by little allow him to make the decision to wait even when the opening is available.

This skill is critical for dogs. It helps them develop self-restraint and may one day keep them from bolting out your front door and into the street.

Crazy/“Let’s Rest”

Play with your dog in an excited way.

Jump up and down, run around like a crazy person, play tug, whatever it takes to get your dog amped up.

Then plop down in a chair and sigh deeply as if your exhaling breath is the air leaving a balloon. You can add an addition social such as “let’s rest”.

When your dog relaxes, quietly praise him for so doing and stay in your relax mode for another two or three minutes.

Then repeat the play-relax cycle again.

“Gentle”

Designate a particular toy with which your pup can play roughly – the rough toy.

This toy can be tugged, shaken, thrown, or whatever else your dog wants to do with it.

Then replace that toy with another.

This second toy – the gentle toy (I call mine Baby) – is one with which your dog must be exceedingly gentle.

It should be used only for this specific exercise, so be certain to keep it safely out of reach when you’re not using it.

Alternate between playing with the rough toy and being calm and cautious with the gentle toy for about twenty to thirty seconds each.

Play this game at least three or four days a week until your pup is proficient at being gentle when gentle toy is out.

Remember to put these toys, especially the gentle toy, away when you are not playing with your pup.

“ICK”

Multiple studies have indicated that dogs can, and do, read our facial expressions in an effort to understand how we feel. We can use this ability to help our dogs understand when we’d prefer he not touch something.

You can teach this by using twelve small pieces of some food substance that you know your dog does not like to eat at all, such as orange peel or cucumber, and twelve small pieces of something he loves to eat.

Make a production of smelling a sample of the food he likes, while smiling and saying, yum. Hand him that piece of food.

Next make a dramatic production of smelling a piece of the food he does not like, while making the repulsed face one makes when scenting sour milk, saying “ICK” in a disgusted tone. You can hold the piece out for your dog, but be sure he doesn’t grab it.

As you and your dog get better at the exercise you can slowly make the item more and more accessible to your dog eventually being able to put it on the floor next to him while he ignores it.

Once your dog will ignore something he doesn’t like, repeat the process with something he likely would eat had you not told him it was “ICK”.

Finally, when your dog is good at leaving what you designate as untouchable, you can begin slowly reducing the drama of your more dramatic face to a subtle wrinkling of your nose and eliminating the verbal “ICK” altogether.

Indicating “Yes and No”

Start by rubbing a yummy bit of treat on your left palm, carefully avoiding touch it with your right hand.

Then place treat where your dog cannot reach it but can still see it.

Ask your dog if he wants a treat (pointing at food) and ask “YES?” while extending your left palm and “NO?” while extending your right palm.

When he sniffs the food on your left palm say “YES – okay” and hand him the food.

As he begins to understand that touching your left palm means he is going to get the food you can start adding other items and/or opportunities (such as going outside) to the mix.

You may find it easiest to allow the absence of a “YES” response to serve as “NO” and that works equally as well as the two-handed approach.

It is also acceptable to use two of the same objects (one held in your left and one in your right hand) in place of your palms or even two clearly different objects not being held.

“Freeze”

When you are playing tug, fetch, or chase with your dog or even just out for a walk, call “FREEZE” and stop moving completely.

Your dog will probably keep moving at this point but that’s okay.

Count to five, say OKAY, GO (or something similar) and play/move again.

It may take weeks, but your dog will learn to stop when you say “FREEZE”.

When he does, tell him is is the SMARTEST dog ever!

Slowly encourage your dog to stay frozen until you walk over to him, put your hands on him, and say the phrase you choose to indicate it is okay to move.

“FREEZE” is that only time we don’t ask...we tell (though in a pleasant tone).

This may very well save your dog’s life one day, so practice this until he is very good at it!

“Trade”

Since one of the primary rules in the Canine Code of Conduct is that it’s wrong to take something away from someone else until they invite you to, it is always better to offer a trade when your dog has something you’d like to get, otherwise you risk being really rude.

Teach the meaning of this word by saying Trade when your dog has a toy or ball and showing him the item you wish to give him in exchange.

Note his success when he releases the item in his possession and takes whatever you’ve offered in swap.

Initially, offer something of equal or greater value in your dog’s mind, for example a treat.

As your dog begins to understand the meaning of the word, your Trade offers can become slightly less enticing, such as offering an exuberant thank you combined with a scratch on the chest.

“Better Hurry” or Go Potty

Take your dog on leash to a spot he often uses to potty and ask him to please, “Better Hurry or Go Potty.”

Increase your chances of success by taking him out at times when it is likely he will have to go, such as first thing in the morning.

Note his success...calmly so you do not startle him mid-stream!

“Like Me”

Choose a behavior you can demonstrate for your dog that he can easily replicate, such as putting your foot or hand on something, turning in a partial circle, or nudging an object.

Make certain these behaviors are simple processes rather than more complex ones requiring multiple steps.

For example, dropping an item on the floor may seem like a one-step process, but it actually involves multiple steps: walking to the item, picking up the item, and dropping the item on the floor.

Ultimately, your dog will be able to do multiple-step action replications, but it’s best to keep things uber simple in the beginning.

We have found that behaviors involving objects rather than simple body movements seem easier for dogs to replicate, but you may choose any single-step behavior you’d like.

Your dog must be able to wait long enough to watch you perform the behavior you are asking him to replicate.

The dog is more likely to wait if he feels calm, which is why it’s important that these exercises be done off leash in a quiet, safely enclosed area.

If your dog struggles to watch you without participating, you may have someone else lightly restrain him while you demonstrate.

Next, demonstrate a simple behavior that your dog can easily copy, such as jumping up, nudging a ball, or putting your hands on a chair. (Note – Most dogs seem to equate our hands with their mouths or front paws, depending on the type of behavior, and our feet with their back paws.)

The performance of the behavior should not require you or your dog to move more than several steps to complete, so situate any needed objects accordingly.

After you perform the behavior, applaud yourself – we clap and say, “Yay, Me!”

Once you have demonstrated the behavior, say, “Can you do like me (or what I did)?”

You may look in the direction you’d like your dog to move, point with your finger or gaze, and even move toward the object if necessary.

When your dog does the demonstrated behavior, clap for him, and say, “Yay, you!” If your dog doesn’t copy you, try another behavior.

When your dog is routinely able to copy single-step behaviors, you may move to two-step behaviors, and so on, until your dog is copying behaviors requiring even five or six steps.

Your dog will tell you how much he can do.

Keep in mind that this should be fun for you both so be sure you keep it low pressure!

Don’t forget to PLAY tug and retrieving games. Help your dog learn to return retrieved item to your hand or lap when seated.

Part Three-Troubleshooting

Manners are ALWAYS of paramount importance.

So how can you help your dog behave appropriately and stay true to the Bond-Based® Approach?

First, let’s talk about what not to do.

Do not attempt to control behaviors using cues and directives.

The goal of the Bond-Based® Approach is to help the dog learn to control his own behavior – not to do it for him.

Cues and commands are counterproductive.

The first step in preventing an unwanted behavior is always to understand what is causing the behavior in the first place.

Once you know why your dog is doing or not doing something, you can come up with a fair, effective way to help him change.

One your dog has a secure attachment to you, focus on building his confidence. How? Teach him. Empower him.

***Your dog’s behavior is your responsibility. If your dog starts to do something ‘naughty’ that might hurt him or someone else, stop him. Obviously you should NEVER hit or yell at your dog. It is fine however if you use your body or his leash to restrain him when he is trying to do something inappropriate such as jumping on someone despite the fact you cautioned him to ‘be gentle.’ Just remember you and your dog need to practice ‘be gentle’!

Stalling on Leash

“Why?” is the first question to ask when your dog is stalling or refusing to move from his current position be that in a car or in the hospital parking lot…or anywhere else, for that matter.

Is he tired? Is he in pain? Is he afraid?

If fatigue, pain, or fear can be ruled out to a reasonable degree of certainty, then it is most likely that your dog’s stalling/refusal is coming from his need to exert control over his circumstances.

It is not uncommon for dogs to use the refusal to move as a way of communicating that they feel out of control and powerless – both in the moment and overall.

Dealing with this issue, requires a three-pronged approach:

Get him moving immediately.

Keep him moving long enough to get where you need to go.

Help him feel he has adequate control in his life in general.

How to Get a Stalled Dog Moving in Urgent Situations:

If you are sure no fear is involved, your best bet is to use your dog’s tendency to reflexively chase moving targets.

Toss a treat or his We Leash handle for him and he will likely go after it, thus forgetting he was going to stay still.

Tricking him in such a way is okay when it is urgent that he move, but should never be used as a teaching method.

Once he moves, change your direction slightly as a way as a way of altering the situation in his mind.

How to Keep Him Moving:

Start by asking him to move.

Rather than saying, “Let’s go, buddy” try saying, “Do you want to walk out to the car with me?” and then continue speaking to him in a happy but matter-of-fact way about anything and everything pausing only to respond as if he has answered any questions you’ve asked.

You can do this very quietly or even silently if you are in public.

It is the engagement and mood conveyed by your facial expressions and body language that are important.

Friendly question and answer talks have a way of holding a dog’s attention without making him anxious.

REMEMBER, UNLESS ON A SNIFFING WALK OR GOING BETEER HURRY, YOUR DOG MUST EITHER BE HOLDING HIS END OF THE WE LEASH OR BE ACTIVELY ENGAGED IN FOOD SHARING WITH YOU.

Pulling Back on Leash

Dogs who use front-hook harnesses will often pull backward when they are bored or want to get your attention.

If your dog pulls away when you sit for a period of time, pencil sized rawhide twists might lessen his boredom.

If that doesn’t work or doesn’t work for long enough, pat your leg to get your dog to come closer and then shorten your leash.

Just pat your leg and call him closer. Resist the urge to lure him with a treat.

Make sure the leash is long enough for your dog to lie down but too short for him to move far from you.

Go two-hands-all-in for a minute or two and then say something like, “You rest.”

If he pulls back, just stay still. Ignore him completely. Do not look at him. Do not talk to him.

It may take you a few sessions, but he will soon figure out that pulling backwards doesn’t succeed in getting your attention…or food!

Car Concerns

Many dogs feel very carsick without actually vomiting. Dogs who drool or get very still (especially on the floor board) are likely feeling nauseous.

If your dog WILL NOT get into or out the car, contact an instructor about carsickness medications.

Your intention must be clear in your own mind when you ask your dog to hop in.

Look where you want him to go rather than at him.

You can encourage your dog to get into the car by sneaking a yummy treat or two or fabulous toy into car before you approach with your dog.

Show him what great stuff awaits him and then just wait.

Don’t coo or coax or tell him he can do it.

Don’t make eye contact with your dog as that freezes them in the moment!

You may repeat “get in, please” occasionally if needed.

Be sure you aren’t blocking the door.

AND wait.

You can pick him up or give him a boost if he approaches car but can’t figure out how to get all the way inside it. He will soon hop it without you asking.

You can also try using a stepping stool to help your dog get into and out of car.

Remember dogs under 11 months need assistance in order to avoid damaging their front legs when jumping from heights taller than they are.

If you have a car who tries to join you in the front seat, please secure him by his harness with something like Kurgo’s Pet Seat Belt (available on Amazon).

Seat belts are NOT safety devices for dogs. They protect people mostly. If you’d like to protect your dog while in the car, please use a safety harness that has been crash tested such as the Sleepypod Clickit Sport, the Sleepypod Clikit Terrain and the ZuGoPet Rocketeer Pack (available on Amazon).

Unwillingness to Get in Bath

Don’t coax. EVER.

You can make bathtubs fun place by sneaking in treats ahead of time, but don’t lure him unless it is an urgent situation.

Be matter of fact in your tone.

Look where you want him to go and not at your dog.

Make your intention clear in your own mind.

After giving time and distance, feel free to resort to a little insistence!

Once in the tub, please don’t manhandle your dog to keep him in-engage him.

Fear of Hair Dryer

Don’t force the issue or restrain your dog. You can always use towels and time!

Let your dog watch other dogs who are okay with dryer and see how many YUMMY treats they get and how much fun they have.

Remember not to coax or lure. Be matter of fact.

Start with gentle dryers and move up to the big guns if needed.

Food Stealing

For behaviors like counter-surfing and food stealing, the underlying cause of the behavior can be as simple as the desire to eat accessible food.

Addressing the cause of the behavior in this situation is as simple as making the food inaccessible for the dog. Problem solved.

Sharing your food when you can and telling your dog clearly when you cannot share, seems to reduce food stealing.

Jumping

Social animals often try to lower their anxiety levels in social settings by seeking to increase their feelings of social support.

For our dogs, that can translate into a need to make physical and/or eye contact with the people in their immediate environment.

If you are at the other end of a dog’s leash, it is YOUR RESPONSIBILITY to provide enough social support so that he can put/keep his paws on the ground.

If your dog jumps on you, go two-hands-all-in with him by rubbing softly under his ears and telling him what a good boy he is until he relaxes enough to keep four paws on the ground.

When someone else approaches your dog, YOU shorten your leash so he can’t reach them person to jump and go two-hands-all-in while reminding your dog to be “gentle” until you are certain that your dog is relaxed enough not to need to jump on new person.

REMIND YOUR DOG TO BE “GENTLE” WITH PEOPLE!

Mouthing

When a dog puts his mouth on you, you have three jobs:

Say “OUCH!” loudly and then remind your dog to be “gentle” so he realizes human skin is VERY fragile.

Find something safe, other than you, he can put in his mouth for comfort.

Help him feel connected to you by going two-hands-all-in.

Remember you are ALWAYS responsible for making certain your dog can behave appropriately in any given situation. BAD MANNERS ARE NEVER OKAY.

Housebreaking Accidents

PLEASE REMEMBER: You are the key to successful house-training. When your dog has an accident, it is quite likely the result of your mistake rather than his.

Never fuss at your dog if you catch him going in the house. You can say, “oops!” and encourage him to run outside but avoid frightening him. The last thing you want if for your dog to be afraid of pottying in front of you.

If an accident happens, clean the area well without saying anything to your dog. If the accident involves poop, use a plastic bag to transport the pile outside to the potty area if possible.

Dogs generally have to potty within 2 minutes of waking up, after eating, and after playing.

You can begin teaching your dog to ring a bell on a string around your doorknob by jiggling the string to ring the bell yourself as you take him out to the bathroom.

It is helpful to take your dog out the same door and to the same location each time he goes to potty.

While it is true that dogs don’t want to soil their living space, remember they consider their living space those places where you hang out together. Rarely used formal living, dining, or guest rooms do not count as living spaces. Please keep those areas blocked off so that your dog cannot decide those out of the way spots are good bathrooms.

If you think your dog has to potty when in public, DISTRACT him with food as you quickly make your way to an exit.

Containment

Containment systems are often used to help with housebreaking and to keep young dogs safe when they must be left alone in the house. While crates are the most commonly known system, they are FAR from the best.

Crates significantly restrict movement not particularly comfortable for any dog.

Baby gates used to create safe spaces (no electrical cords or chewable furniture etc.), kennels like Lucky Dog Play Pen, and exercise pens provide a much better way of containing your puppy.

If you must be away from your dog longer than it is fair to expect them to not potty, it is best to put a dog litter pan filled with newspaper pellets in a corner of containment area so your dog can go when he/she needs to go.

If you need to leave your dog while at work together, ask someone else to hold your dog. Hold – not walk around with – your dog! It is naturally for dogs to worry about being left alone at work.

Reactivity on Leash

The keys to eliminating your leashed dog’s inappropriate reaction to visual stimuli is to increase their feeling of control and/or narrowing their visual field of focus.

Increasing Feelings of Control:

Imagine for a moment walking next to your best friend in all the world – with your hands duct-taped behind your back.

It would be scary, wouldn’t it? Here you are in a place where you don’t speak much of the language basically unable to defend yourself or your friend.

That must be what our dogs feel like when they are leashed to us – vulnerable and largely helpless.

Is it any wonder our leashed dogs react strongly to things they fear might be dangerous?

They love us and want to be with us. Yet, they are most certainly aware that they are trapped.

Even extraordinarily well educated dogs aren’t safe in open areas unless they are on a leash.

The We Leash keeps your dog safe while also giving him a sense of control and freedom.

The section of leash your dog holds is slightly longer than the section that goes to the collar or harness making it impossible to feel any pressure.

Additionally, the connection from his mouth to your hand as well as the feeling of the toy in his mouth provides him a sense of comfort.

Finally, the toy in his mouth, allows him to feel as if the “hunt” has been successfully concluded and stimulates salivation prompting the digestion organs to send an ‘all is well’ signal to the brain!

Helping Your Dog Hold His End of the We Leash (Repeated)

BEFORE your dog can drop the toy, ask him to give it to you. Wiggle the toy on ground, wave it over his head, or hide it behind your back for a second, then let him grab it.

If your dog drops the toy before you ask, stop walking for a count of three, take the toy and entice him to grab it, and try the Walk, Ask, Wiggle, Grab sequence again.

Be sure your dog ONLY has access to her handle, toy, binkie while you are walking together so that her end of the leash stays exciting and he can’t chew it up!

Narrowing Their Visual Field of Focus

Dogs, much like people, have two forms of visual inspections. One is a lantern-like focus which includes their entire visual field. Lantern focus isn’t very crisp, yet it affords significant opportunity to perceive problems. The other type of visual inspection is beam-like, where attentional focus is narrowed to a particular sight with only vague awareness of the remainder of visual field.

Food-Sharing to Narrow Their Focus

It is best if your dog learns to narrowly focus on you.

How can you help them want to focus on you? Food-share!

Share a tiny amount of cheese or other safe food with she as you walk. Start by taking a bite (or pretending to do so) and then breaking off a tiny bit and handing it to your dog.

Continue food-sharing at VERY slowly increasing intervals never going longer than 15 seconds.

If she loses focus, speed back up a bit.

You can stretch time by making a big production of the whole process by smacking as you pretend to eat and briefly holding her bite in your closed hand for her to nuzzle before letting her have it.

During those slowly increasing intervals, talk to your dog about your day, your plans, or anything at all. She needs to know that you are with her – that you and she are a team.

So, should you use the We Leash or food-share?

The ultimate solution is definitely the We Leash. But when she is particularly anxious, food-sharing to narrow attentional focus is the best bet.

In those cases her end of the We Leash shouldn’t be offered at all. When her end of the We Leash is presented to her, you will not walk unless she is holding her end of the leash (other than during sniffing walks* or potty breaks when you hold both ends in your hand.)

This way a fantastic habit is created wherein you both have a sense of security and control.

*Let your dog take you on sniffing walks for at least a few minutes each day in areas where you are quite certain you will not run into other dogs. During these walks, let your dog set the path and pace as you keep up.

Begging for Food

Food-share more!

Once your dogs realizes that you will share when you can, you can easily hold up your hands, palms out, and explain “No more for you.” It may take a few time but your dog will get it.

Remember that dogs beg for food because they believe they must do something to ‘get’ you to feed them. Convincing them that you share without their prompting eliminates the problem!

If you need more help, please email info@canineassistants.org.

Part Four-Extra Info For Hospital Dog Handlers

In The Hospital

The vulnerability of patients, high stress and unpredictability of hospitals makes it crucial that dogs feel safe when they are working in hospitals. The only dogs who are safe around patients are dogs who feels safe themselves. The number one priority of hospital dog handlers is being certain their dogs feel safe.

Commands should NEVER be given as they control a dog’s behavior and can result in aggression and anxiety. The same is true for rewarding behaviors (e.g., giving them treats when they lay down or luring them with a treat). When dogs are conditioned to behave a certain way, they are no longer voluntarily cooperating. This type of training puts hospital dogs at a greater risk for acting inappropriately and potentially a shortened life expectancy.

Providing social and environmental cues is much more effective than giving commands. Social cues are the signals people send through body language and expressions. Environmental cues are those things around dogs that tell them what is happening and how to respond. The ‘sour milk face’ used to help dogs understand what “Ick” means, sighing to express relaxation, and shaking your head subtly are all examples of social cues. Looking at, moving toward, pointing at, and touching something such as a hospital bed are examples of environmental cues.

You must be your dog’s advocate. There will be times when people run up to your dog and ask him to sit or lie down. Think about and practice what you will say and do in those situations ahead of time There will also be times people will comment or your dog’s lack of training. Practice what you will say and do!

Remember there nothing you can train a dog to do that you can’t also teach him to do using a Bond-Based Approach. If you aren’t sure how, just ask Jennifer!

Be Your Dog’s Voice

If your dog won’t do something such as jumping into a patient’s bed voluntarily, be his voice. Say “Oh poor thing, your back must be bothering you today. I’m sure no one would mind if you just say hello from the floor” or something similar. Such statements keep patient’s from having hurt feelings without having to force your dog into a potentially uncomfortable position.

If your dog continues to refuse to do something, such as jumping on beds, practice in an empty room. Sometimes dogs lose confidence in their ability to successfully do certain things and need practice to regain that confidence.

Walking through the Hospital

Your dog should not only be wearing his We Leash, but he should ALWAYS be holding his end of the leash. When dogs hold something in their mouth, it activates the vagal nerve, which sends signals from their stomach to their brain that it’s safe enough to digest food. We call this process “rest and digest” because dogs have to be relaxed in order for digestion to begin. Your dog will automatically feel more relaxed when he holds his end of the We Leash.

Note: If your dog doesn’t seem interested in holding his end of the We Leash, attach something he loves (non-rawhide bones for example) with a rubber band to his end of the We Leash handle. He’ll love it and won’t want to put it down! You can “trade” him for a treat prior to entering a patients room, unclip the handle, slip it into a ziplock bag, and leave it outside the patients room before entering. Just remember to snap the We Leash together and pick up the handle when you leave!

There will be time when your dog is actually a bit nervous and thus unwilling to hold his end of the leash. When this happens, food share with something yummy to see if you can help him get out of ‘fight/flight’ Mode and back into ‘rest/digest’ mode.

If your dog refuses even yummy food sharing food, please know he is extremely uncomfortable and try to get him out of the situation as soon as is possible.

Jumping and Mouthing

It’s not uncommon for dogs to want to greet someone new. For them this looks like jumping up to give a hug or mouthing at their wrists to say hello. However, a hospital is no place for this type of greeting (unless the handler gives permission for the dog to hug someone).

To keep from jumping, you can shorten your dog’s leash by holding the leash down by his harness and telling him to be “Gentle”. This will minimize his range of motion and help keep his feet on the floor. If your dog is mouthy around new people, start by giving him a toy to hold in his mouth. Remind him to be “Gentle” because human skin is fragile. After a while, your dog should stop jumping and mouthing only with the reminder of “Gentle”, and you shouldn’t have to shorten the leash or give him a toy to hold in his mouth.

You can practice these exercises by having someone excitedly walk into the room to greet your dog so they learn the appropriate response to “gentle”.

Entering a Patient’s Room

Dogs have an impeccable sense of smell and hearing, so imagine what they must experience when walking into a hospital room. They can smell a particularly foul odor that the human body produces when fighting off an infection or virus. This, along with the loud beeping of machines, could cause a dog to hesitate when entering a patient’s room.

If your dog doesn’t want to go into a patient’s room, the most important thing to remember is you do NOT want to force him. Do not, in any circumstance, try to lure him with a treat. Instead, share people food with him so he knows it’s safe enough to relax and ask if he’d like to go inside to meet your friend. If he’s still not budging, you can turn down the hall to get him walking and go back to the patient’s room while actively food sharing and talking to him. If he still does not want to enter the room, honor his wishes and try again later. If your dog is willing to enter the patient’s room, remember to enter in front of your dog so you can scout for food on the floor or other potential hazard.

Lying in a Patient’s Bed

Lying in a patient’s bed is understandably a task both patients and handlers would like for a hospital dog to do. However, you should NEVER command your dog to lay in a patient’s bed or lure him with a treat to do so. A patient is most vulnerable when they are lying in bed, and forcing a dog to lie in such a confined space is much like trapping him in a corner. It can be scary. And remember, the only dog who is safe around patients is a dog who feels safe himself.

Rather than coercing your dog to lay in a patient’s bed, you ask them to cooperate with you by responding to social and environmental cues. Ask your dog if he’d like to jump up on the bed by pointing to or patting the bed. You can make brief eye contact but then look where you want your dog to go. Once he’s on the bed, you can massage him for a moment and then sigh deeply while patting the bed to get him to relax and lay down.

Positioning a Dog During a Procedure

There will inevitably be times when a patient is undergoing a procedure where it’s beneficial for the dog to be in the room but not necessarily on the bed. If the room is crowded and you need him to stay in a specific area (e.g., next to you in front of the bed), first try pointing where you want your dog to move and asking him to “move please”. Remember you can make quick eye contact with your dog but then focus on the spot where you want your dog to stand. If asking doesn’t work, you can put a little bit of pressure on the We Leash or gently reposition his body using both of your hands. While you may be occupied distracting the patient during a procedure, it’s important to continue to make occasional brief eye contact and talk to your dog.

Breakroom Etiquette:

Your dog will undoubtedly be everyone’s favorite employee, which means they may try feeding him. It’s your decision if you want to allow this or if you’d rather be the only one who shares food with him. Either way, you should state your expectations to your coworkers so everyone is aligned. If you decide they can share food with your dog, be sure to explain “All gone” “the rest is for me” gesturing with empty hands with palms out so your dog knows when to leave them alone.

Finally

Remember to talk to your dog as you go through the day. Explain things to him. Don’t hesitate to put pressure on his leash briefly if you need to keep him from doing something inappropriate. Bond-based dogs aren’t emotionally fragile so tell him if what he is doing isn’t okay and help him figure out what would be okay.

More than anything, please don’t try to do just a little (or a lot) of training with your dog. Once your dog believes he must do certain things (like sit) to ensure you will love and look after him, everything changes. You will have to train more and more. The end result will be a very quiet, seemingly well-mannered dog who is actually miserable. These dogs don’t deserve that. And never forget, we are here to help!